Dover alternatives: The Portsmouth & Plymouth routes to France

How to avoid Dover: Portsmouth & Plymouth ferry routes to France (the West Route playbook)
If the words Dover crossing make you picture queues, stress, and a motorway slog before the holiday even begins, you’re not alone. We’ve done the family road-trip thing with two young kids, and for us the calmer alternative is often the same: head west and let the ferry do the heavy lifting.
With ferries from Portsmouth and Plymouth to France, you can skip the Dover pinch point, swap some road miles for proper downtime, and arrive feeling like the trip has already started. This guide helps you pick the right west-coast crossing based on where you’re starting in the UK and where you’re going in France: the ‘friendly playbook' version, with quick picks and real-life tips.
Want the route hubs first? Here you go: ferries from Portsmouth to France and ferries from Plymouth to France.
Going to Normandy (Caen/Bayeux/D-Day coast)? Pick Portsmouth → Caen (our default all-rounder).
Going to Brittany (Saint-Malo/Dinan/Finistère)? Pick Portsmouth → Saint-Malo (instant Brittany vibes).
Want a shorter West Route ‘reset’ crossing? Consider Portsmouth → Cherbourg (we did it on the Santona): our Portsmouth → Cherbourg experience.
Starting in Devon/Cornwall (or don’t want to backtrack)? Look at Plymouth → France routes.
Planning Atlantic coast vibes (France → Spain → Portugal)? This is your pick-and-mix guide: Atlantic coast cities to pick.
Set sail to (quick links)
- Route picker table
- Quick picks
- West Route vs Dover
- Driving reality check
- What to do onboard
- Portsmouth routes
- Plymouth routes
- Best destinations
- Itinerary ideas
- Book-smart tips
- Atlantic coast road trip ideas
- Quick FAQs
Best for: Normandy, Brittany, the Loire, Atlantic coast road trips (and anyone who prefers calm over chaos).
Why it works: fewer motorway miles, more rest, and you land closer to where you actually want to be.
The vibe: meals, sea air, a wander onboard, and (if you time it right) even a cabin nap.
Route picker table
If you’re deciding between Portsmouth, Plymouth (or just sticking with Dover), this is the fastest way to choose. We built it as a quick ‘match your first stop' cheat sheet.
| Starting point (UK) | Best departure | Best arrival | Best for | Quick reason |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| London / Kent / East Sussex | Dover / Folkestone (tunnel) | Calais / Dunkirk | Calais/Lille, Belgium, Netherlands, quick dashes | Shortest crossing and fastest to the east; best if convenience beats comfort. |
| London / South East / M25 corridor | Portsmouth | Caen (Ouistreham) | Normandy, Bayeux, D-Day coast, first-night easy | Go-to all-rounder: land close to Normandy and keep day 1 gentle. |
| London / South / Midlands (via M3/M27) | Portsmouth | Saint-Malo | Brittany, Dinan, Emerald Coast, Mont Saint-Michel add-on | Instant Brittany vibe - the ‘holiday starts onboard’ crossing. We sailed this route ourselves on the ferry Saint Malo |
| South / South West (or want a shorter reset crossing) | Portsmouth | Cherbourg | Cotentin, west Normandy, calmer first day | Shorter West Route hop; great reset (we did it on the Santona). |
| Devon / Cornwall / Somerset / South Wales | Plymouth | Brittany ports (e.g., Roscoff, seasonal) | Brittany, coastal road trips, less backtracking | Avoids the ‘drive east to go west’ detour. |
If you’re doing this as a family, the ferry can turn travel-day chaos into something that actually feels manageable. We’ve bundled our best real-life tips (onboard bag, nap strategy, cabin vs seats, what to do first after boarding) here: how to travel comfortably with children on the ferry.
Tip: your best route is usually the one that lands you closest to your first real stop. That’s how you win day one.
Travel-day game plan (West Route, stress-free version)
If you want the West Route to feel genuinely calmer, this is the simple rhythm that works for us (especially with kids):
- Arrive early enough to breathe: not rushed, not too early: just ‘we’ve got time for toilets + snacks'.
- Pack one small onboard bag: passports/booking, chargers, wipes, snacks, spare layer, and one ‘comfort thing'.
- Do a deck walk first: it burns energy and makes later downtime easier.
- Then lock in the win: food (or coffee) + a cabin nap if you’ve got one.
For the full family version (what to pack + nap timing + cabin vs seats), we keep it updated here: how to travel comfortably with children on the ferry.

Quick picks
- Most practical all-rounder: Portsmouth → Caen (great for Normandy and an easy first driving day). Think: Bayeux, the D-Day coast, and a gentle start to your road trip.
- Best for Brittany vibes: Portsmouth → Saint-Malo (arrive with instant character). Think: Saint-Malo, Dinan, the Emerald Coast, and Mont Saint-Michel as an easy add-on.
- Shorter West Route reset crossing: Portsmouth → Cherbourg (we sailed it on the Santona, it’s a great ‘holiday starts here' crossing). See our Portsmouth → Cherbourg experience. Handy for Normandy/Cotentin exploring with a smoother first day.
- Starting from the South West: see Plymouth → France routes (less backtracking if you’re in Devon/Cornwall).
If you just want the simplest decision: pick Caen for Normandy, pick Saint-Malo for Brittany, and you’re already winning.

Map: Portsmouth & Plymouth ferries to France (+ Poole & Newhaven)
Pins: Portsmouth, Plymouth, Poole, Newhaven, Caen/Ouistreham, Cherbourg, Le Havre, Saint-Malo and Dieppe.
West Route vs Dover: which is right for you?
Here’s the honest take: neither is ‘better' for everyone. It depends on where you’re going, how you like to travel, and whether your travel day needs to be efficient or easy.
Pick Portsmouth / Plymouth if…
- You’re heading for Normandy, Brittany or the Atlantic coast.
- You’d rather swap motorway miles for onboard downtime.
- You’re travelling with kids and want the travel day to feel less intense.
- You like the idea of arriving closer to your end destination.
Stick with Dover if…
- You want the shortest possible crossing and don’t mind the driving.
- Your first stop is near Calais/Lille (or you’re mainly heading east).
- You’re doing a quick dash, and convenience beats comfort this time.

Quick comparison: Dover vs West Route alternatives
| What matters | Dover-style crossing | West Route (Portsmouth/Plymouth) |
|---|---|---|
| Crossing time | Shorter | Longer |
| Driving load | Often more motorways on both sides | Often fewer miles if you’re going west in France |
| Travel-day stress | Can be higher (queues + concentrated road time) | Often lower (you can rest, eat, and reset onboard) |
| Best match | East / quick hops / tight schedules | Normandy / Brittany / Atlantic road trips |
Driving reality check: but isn’t Dover faster?
Sometimes, on paper, Dover looks faster. But for real road trips (especially with kids), the question isn’t only ‘fastest crossing', it’s ‘best travel day'. The West Route often wins because:
- Onboard time is usable time (food, rest, a walk, a nap): motorway time isn’t.
- If you’re going to Normandy/Brittany/Atlantic coast, you often land closer and drive less afterwards.
- For families: swapping hours strapped in for hours moving around can change the whole first day.
Ferrygogo tip: A longer ferry can still create a shorter-feeling travel day, because you arrive calmer and do fewer tense hours behind the wheel.
Why the West Route works so well
1) You’re heading west in France, so why drive east first?
If your plan is Normandy, Brittany, or the Atlantic coast, the Dover corridor can mean extra UK and French motorway miles just to get started. The West Route flips that: you land closer to the regions you actually want, and your first holiday hours feel calmer.
2) Longer crossing, easier journey
On paper, Dover can look faster. In reality, the West Route often wins on comfort: less tense driving, a proper meal, time to decompress, and kids who can move around rather than being strapped in for hours.
3) You can arrive fresher – especially with kids
We’ve found that starting the trip on board makes a big difference. The kids get a change of scene, you can actually sit down, and there’s a clear shift from travel mode into holiday mode as soon as the ship leaves port. A quick deck walk after boarding is often the difference between chaos and chill.
We’ve sailed the Saint-Malo ↔ Portsmouth route ourselves and wrote up our experience with photos and a quick visual impression. If you’re wondering what the crossing feels like in real life (and what it’s like with kids), this one’s for you: Read our Saint-Malo ↔ Portsmouth experience.
What is there to do on the West Route ferries?
This is where the West Route earns its keep. You’re not just getting across: you’re starting the holiday. Depending on the sailing and ship, think:
- Food and drink: a proper sit-down meal (or at least a calm coffee) without juggling motorway exits.
- Cabins: brilliant for proper rest, even on day crossings with kids.
- Deck time: fresh air, sea views, and the simple joy of doing nothing for a bit.
- Space to roam: a genuine lifesaver with young children.
Travelling with kids? This is what helps most
One small upgrade that can make a massive difference: a cabin. Not just overnight, but also on day sailings. For naptime, it’s basically a reset button.
- Cabin for day crossings: perfect for naptime, changing, snacks, and a quiet base when the ship gets busy.
- One small onboard bag: snacks, wipes, chargers, spare layer, and anything you’d rather not dig out of the car deck.
- Deck walk early: it burns off energy and makes later downtime much easier.
- Keep one comfort routine: a book, a small toy, or a familiar snack at the right moment can be pure magic.
Want the full family cheat sheet (what to pack, what to do first onboard, and how to time naps)? Here it is: how to travel comfortably with children on the ferry.
We did the Portsmouth → Cherbourg crossing on Brittany Ferries’ Santona and wrote it up with photos, onboard impressions, and what it’s like as a family crossing: Read our Portsmouth → Cherbourg (Santona) experience.
Portsmouth routes
Route hub: ferries from Portsmouth to France.
Plymouth routes
Route hub: ferries from Plymouth to France.
For which destinations does the West Route make the most sense?
Normandy (easy wins)
- Caen & the D-Day coast – great for history, beaches, and family-friendly stops.
- Bayeux & inland Normandy – a lovely first night if you want to keep driving light after arrival.
- Honfleur / Deauville – classic coastal towns with an easy road-trip feel.
Brittany (where this route feels made for road trips)
- Saint-Malo & the Emerald Coast – instant character, great first-stop energy.
- Mont Saint-Michel – an easy add-on if you land in the right corner of France.
- West Brittany (Finistère) – beaches, smaller towns, and big coastal drives.
Loire & Atlantic coast road trips
- Nantes / La Rochelle direction – if your plan is coastal France without the Paris traffic.
- Basque Country / Northern Spain (via France) – a slower, scenic approach where the journey is part of the fun.
Ferrygogo tip: If your itinerary is Normandy/Brittany/Atlantic coast, the West Route often saves your energy where it matters most: the first two days.
Three easy itinerary ideas (to steal)
- 3–4 days in Normandy (easy mode)
Sail from Portsmouth to Caen, base yourself near Bayeux or the coast, and keep the first driving day gentle. - 5–7 days Brittany + Mont Saint-Michel
Sail Portsmouth → Saint-Malo, do the Emerald Coast, add Dinan, and finish with Mont Saint-Michel (early start helps). Real-life crossing: Saint-Malo ↔ Portsmouth experience. - Atlantic coast starter (France → Spain → Portugal vibes)
Start in western France and follow the coastline south. Use this as your pick-and-mix map: Atlantic coast cities to pick.
Book-smart tips (small things that make a big difference)
- Cabins go first, especially in school holidays. If your dates are fixed, book sooner rather than later.
- Day sailing with kids: a cabin can be a brilliant naptime base camp, not just an overnight luxury.
- Choose your smoothest travel day: if possible, avoid peak changeover days and give yourself a relaxed buffer.
- Be route-flexible: compare Caen vs Saint-Malo. Small tweaks can make the whole trip feel easier.
- Keep your essentials with you: one small onboard bag saves rummaging around later.
Where next? Turn it into an Atlantic coast road trip
If you’re already landing in the right corner of France, it’s a shame to stop at one region. We’ve put together a pick-and-mix guide to the best Atlantic coast stops across France → Spain → Portugal, with maps and city ideas you can plug into your itinerary: Atlantic coast cities to pick (France, Spain & Portugal).
So, is it worth it?
If you love the quickest possible crossing, Dover can still be the obvious choice. But if you prefer a calmer start, fewer road miles, and a journey that feels like part of the holiday, then Portsmouth and Plymouth are genuinely brilliant.
We’ll keep updating this playbook with our own sailings, family tips, and route-by-route notes. If you’re planning a specific trip (kids, overnight, cabins), the logbook links above give you a real feel for it – especially Saint-Malo ↔ Portsmouth and Portsmouth → Cherbourg (Santona).
Quick FAQs – West Route playbook to France
Isn’t this slower than Dover?
Sometimes, yes on paper. But you may do fewer motorway miles, take proper breaks on board, and arrive closer to your end destination. For many Normandy/Brittany/Atlantic coast road trips, it feels easier overall.
Do I need a cabin?
Not always. For daytime crossings, a comfy seat and a good plan can be enough. For overnight (or if you want the kids to properly reset), a cabin can be the best money you spend on the whole trip. And for day sailings with young children, a cabin can be a brilliant naptime base camp.
When should I book?
If your dates are fixed, book early. Peak season crossings (and especially family-friendly cabin options) can sell out first. If you’re aiming for the best prices, many people start looking in November/December/January for the following year.
Which route is best for Brittany?
Portsmouth → Saint-Malo is the classic ‘instant Brittany' arrival. If you’re already in the South West, Plymouth routes can be the easiest way to avoid backtracking.
What’s the best West Route for a road trip to Spain or Portugal?
The best one is the one that lands you closest to your first real stop in western France. Once you’re in that corner, this guide helps you plan the fun part: Atlantic coast cities to pick (France → Spain → Portugal).
JW (Jan Willem) van Tilburg is one of the co-founders of FerryGoGo, has a passion for food, drink and travel. He loves exploring data and the history of the destinations featured on FerryGoGo, and he’s always curious about the population of each place. He’s also sailed many of the ferry routes between the UK and the continent himself; from Saint-Malo–Portsmouth to overnight crossings such as Portsmouth–Cherbourg and Newcastle–Amsterdam - so his guides are grounded in first-hand experience.
